CAMAIORE, PIEVE DI PERALTA

The Peralta is special - very special - not really a hotel at all, but rather a miniature medieval village tucked high in the coastal hills northeast of Pisa. This cluster of buildings had fallen into ruin when the famous Italian sculptress, Fiore de Henriquez, discovered the village, fell in love, and decided to bring the hamlet back to life. Fifteen years of reconstruction has resulted in a dream of a retreat. Fiore de Henriquez has her home and studio in one of the buildings - the others now house the few lucky guests who find their way to this secluded paradise. This hotel is definitely not for everyone. Those who like a slick hotel with the assurance that everything will always work perfectly had best find other accommodation. There are no promises here that there will never be a shortage of water* or problems with the electrical power*. But this is a small price to pay for those of you who love to walk through groves of chestnut trees, pick wild flowers along secluded paths, red a favourite book while soaking in the sunshine or, best yet, do absolutely nothing at all except enjoy the breathtaking view out over the valley to the sea. There is no planned activity at the hotel except for the camaraderie of fellow guests. However, if you want to do a little sightseeing, the Peralta is well located. Florence is only about 90 minunte away, |Lucca (one of my favourite of Italy's walled cities) is about a half an hour's drive. Carrara (where Michelangelo came to handpick marble for his masterpieces) just a short excursion to the north, and the seaside town of Viareggio is close by. Although the concept of Peralta is rustic, it far surpassed what I had expected. Although the rooms are simple, there is an elegance to their simplicity. Obviously the talents of Fiore de Henriquez were called upon in the design and décor - each room abounds with rustic charm, with extensive use of handmade tiles, what appear to be hand-loomed fabrics and attractive wooden beds and chests. Especially appealing is the tiny lounge where comfy sofas are grouped around a cosy fireplace. You will also be delighted to discover, tucked high on a tiny plateau above the hotel, a delightful pool with a terrace where guests can enjoy a splendid view to the sea.
Whatever day you do arrive, be sure you have a reservation. The hotel is really secluded and you will certainly not want to take a long drive only to discover the hotel is full - which it usually is. When you make your reservation, you will receive a map with directions on how to get to Peralta. However, should you be arriving prior to receiving a map, this will help:
Drive to Camaiore (22kms north of Lucca) then watch for a sign to Pieve di Camaiore. You will then wind up through the trees, where occasionally you will spot, if you look carefully,a few signs to the Peralta, giving encouragement that you are not lost. Don't give up. Just keep driving as the road twists and becomes narrow and steep and then ends **….. at which point you park your car and continue on foot for the last quarter mile. (Leave your luggage in the car and someone will retrieve it for you later.) I assure the journey is worthwhile.

** The road actually ends in our carpark. The path she talks about is a wide, easy track about 200 yards long, going along the hill and not up it! We fetch your luggage from your car in our little 3-wheel truck.

* The shortage of water and problems with electrical supply no longer apply. Sometimes our electricity can be affected by violent storm or overloading the circuit, but this rarely happens these days!